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Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Inspiration 1.

When asked what inspires me when designing and installing gardens, or designing and building stonework, my answer is invariably along the lines of, “…my surroundings and life experiences”. I have never really considered how unhelpful my stock answer might seem. It occurs to me that, without further explanation, my response must seem  glib and superficial.  To try and rectify that, I’ve put together a couple of posts focusing on my own particular creative process when creating gardens and stonework.  The following is an example from a recent project here in Connecticut.

The project involved the complete redesign of an Essex property which included several different garden areas. As always, we had taken an inventory of the existing plants throughout the garden areas that we were to redesign and recorded a quantity of Lysimachia clethroides (Gooseneck Loosestrife). This is a handsome plant with a vigorously colonizing habit, and though it didn’t fit into the perennial gardens schemes we were designing, I didn’t reject it completely.


                                                                                      
One component of the project was to create a pedestrian access leading from a large lawn area down a steep, lightly wooded bank to a river.  To create safe access to the water I built a series of stone steps, bridged by curved and switchbacked, mulched paths and ending with stone steps at the river’s edge. Fifty feet downstream from where the steps meet the river is a dam of some six feet in height.  The moving current  and the rushing sound of falling water attest to the existance of a waterfall, and though the fall cannot be seen, its presence is such an audible feature of the place that I wanted to find a subtle way to reference this in the dry landscape.

In the transitional woodland area, I planted hydrangeas and rhododendrons, limiting the color to a predominantly blue and white scheme. Vinca and pachysandra, salvaged from other garden areas, provided ground cover and erosion control, and, along the edges of the paths I decided to create a series of “ waterfalls” by planting the Lysimachia on the inside curve of each series of steps. The nodding, bending spires of white flowerheads, when seen in colonies, evoke whitecaps or, waterfalls and anyone familiar with this plant knows that  it won’t be long before drifts of blossoms cascade down the bank towards the rushing current.




Monday, January 9, 2012

Upcoming Walling Workshop in Connecticut

Dry Stone Wall Building Workshop
Killingworth , Connecticut

Time:   Saturday, April 28th and Sunday, April 29th, beginning at 9:00 am till 4:00 pm
Place:    Stonewell Farm, 39 Beckwith Rd., Killingworth CT 06419
Tuition: $300.00
Registration:
Contact:     Michelle Becker
860-322-0060
e-mail: mb@mbeckerco.com


On April 28th and April 29thth 2012, Andrew Pighills, expert stone mason and North American representative of the Dry Stone Walling Association of Great Britain, will teach a two-day, weekend long workshop on the art of dry stone wall building at Stonewell Farm in Killingworth, CT.

Participants will learn the basic principles of wall building, from establishing foundations, to the methods of dry laid (sometimes called dry-stacked) construction and ‘hearting’ the wall. This hands-on workshop will address not only the structure and principles behind wall building but also the aesthetic considerations of balance and proportion.

As part of Andrew's ongoing commitment to preserve New England’s heritage and promote and cultivate the dry stone wall building skills that will ensure the preservation of our vernacular landscape, the upcoming Dry Stone Walling workshop will be the first in what is planned to be a twice yearly event.

This workshop is open to participants, 18 years of age or older, of all levels of experience, however, the workshop is limited to 16 participants.


ANDREW PIGHILLS
Dry stone wall builder, Andrew Pighills, learned his craft as a young apprentice to master craftsmen in his birthplace, the Yorkshire Dales of his native England.

He has thirty years of experience building with stone, both dry and mortared, although dry laid stonework is his preference. Pighills holds an Advanced Craftsman certification with the Dry Stone Walling Association of Great Britain, of which he is a North American representative, as well as a certificate in Horticulture from the Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain. His company, English Gardens and Landscaping, specializes in English cottage gardens and natural stonework . In addition to building walls and creating gardens, Andrew’s work includes outdoor kitchens, wine cellars, fire-pits, fireplaces and garden features that include follies and other whimsical structures in stone.

 Andrew's work has been featured in the New York Times, and he has worked with renowned stone artist, Dan Snow, providing assistance with commissioned pieces and co-teaching a number of workshops on the art of dry stone walling throughout New England. Pighills’ work is profiled in the book, “Stone Primer” by Charles McCraven and published by Storey Publishing.
www.englishgardensandlandscaping.com
www.heaveandhoe.blogspot.com

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Upcoming Dry Stone Walling Workshop

Saturday-Sunday, April 28-29th
(Two-day Workshop) 8:30 am-4:00 pm
Instructor: Andrew Pighills
Location:   Stonewell Farm, Killingworth, CT

This two-day workshop will provide a hands-on education in the structural techniques and aesthetic considerations involved in building a dry stone wall (a stone wall built without mortar) using the stone native to our region. The outdoor classroom provides the setting for practicing proper dry stone walling methods including safety, batter, hearting, throughs, and coping. Knowledge gained will prepare students for their own projects and help train their eyes to identify proper walling techniques in all walls.
Cost: $300.00
To register: contact Michelle Becker
Tel: 860-322-0060
e-mail: mb@mbeckerco.com

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

DRY STONE RETAINING WALLS

TIPS FOR BUILDING RETAINING WALLS
I have received several inquiries about building retaining walls. While there is alot of information out there, some of it is contradictory, so I will tell you what I find works best for me.
  •   Foundation Trench: The foundation trench should be dug deep enough to remove all organic matter or black soil. Once this is done another consideration for foundation trench depth is the eventual height of the wall, the guide that I use is.
  • Trench Depth: The depth of the trench should be between a third and a half of the height of the wall. Therefore if the wall is to be three feet high then the trench should be between twelve and twenty four inches deep. I use the same calculation for the width of the wall or the depth you need to dig back into the bank, plus at least a further twelve inches to allow room to back fill with clean crushed stone between the finished wall and the soil embankment.  I use three quarter inch clean crushed stone for the backfill and for filling the foundation trench.
  • Trench Width: The trench should also be three to six inches wider than the wall, this allows the foundation stones to be set in from the edge of the trench. When the trench is dug, fill to within six inches of grade with clean crushed stone then commence building the wall. I like to build a wall with two faces similar to a free standing wall but I reserve the poor quality stone for the side facing the embankment as this will not be seen when the wall is backfilled.
  • Batter/Slope of Wall: The batter or the amount the wall should slope into the bank is a personal choice, I use a batter of six to one, so every six inches of vertical wall building you should slope the wall toward the soil embankment one inch. If the wall is three feet high then the top will be six inches in from the vertical.To achieve this, set a frame at the correct angle at either end of your trench and string a taut line between the frames. Starting near the bottom and lifting the line as the wall rises, making sure the stones placed on the wall never rest against the line. This will give you a nice straight wall with a uniform slope.
  • Curved Walls: If the wall is to be curved, then I use lengths of rebar set at the correct angle every three to six feet depending on the severity of the curve.
  • Soil Considerations: If your soil is clay and if it is feasible I would advise laying a drain pipe from the base of the trench so the trench never fills with water which could be a problem in areas with freezing winters.   

Monday, July 25, 2011

The Craven Herald; my hometown paper

Wow, from the NY Times to the Craven Herald & Pioneer, now I'm really hitting the dizzying heights.
I just learned that my hometown newspaper, The Craven Herald, from Skipton, UK has done a piece on me. It was very nice of them, even if they did get a couple things wrong. (I live in Killingworth, not Greenwich).And, taken out of context, I'm not so sure my wife is going to like the part that says "he came never intending to stay..."  It is very kind of them to do a piece on me and so I share the link with you here:
http://www.cravenherald.co.uk/news/9152841.Former_Craven_man_teaches_dry_stone_walling_to_Americans/
Stay tuned!

Poults and Quail

Sometimes I can't help myself and last week I succumbed to the call of a box of little peeping poults at the Middlesex Livestock Auction. These were identified as Heritage turkeys but no further information was provided, so, in a few months time, I'll have to post pictures of these guys in their adulthood and we can all have some fun trying to identify the breed. At the moment, the young quail, which we hatched in two batches in an incubator that we borrowed from a friend, seem to enjoy the company of the young poults, but we'll see how this goes when the size differential begins to become obvious.